The build begins!

[bridge]

Hi Edision,
very very niceful building, I love your box so much! look very very professional.

I'm confused, what's the issue with mounting a laserwave driver on the baseplate?

Hi Mr.coffee, look below pictures. from now, all our laser's driver are had this bracket inside as attachment.
Best regards!
Bridge

[edison]

Thanks bridge. I try to compete with the factory build ones The case is my own design and i can make more of them for other hobbiest. But if i,m hounest order a case was cheaper and easier. When my projector is finished i will show some pictures of how it looks. As for the first pictures showing some beams i think in a couple of weeks i have some pics. Only red and green for now.But i save some cash for the blue already

[DixiScan]

Hi Johan,

Your case looks nice.
Still a few remarks about your design:

1. The power switch is upside down. If something goes wrong, it's a natural thing that people hit switches from up to down, so from On to Off.
All other professional devices on the market have the Off position at the bottom.

2. Your power blocks are mounted very close to each other.
These blocks will produce most of the heat of your setup.
So, heat will be most in that corner of your baseplate, which causes a lot of thermal stress, compared to other places of your plate.
This can be solved by re-arranging all the (heat) blocks.

3. As you may know, these power blocks are containing high frequency components. Your power packs do not have the Faraday Cage that stops this HF. HF can interfere your other devices on the baseplate.
The well known company www.Conrad.nl sells these switched power modules.

4. If I can see it right, you hide all your wires in the gray plastic tunnel.
This is nice, but now all the AC and DC wires are laying next to each other. Try to avoid this kind of setup. The AC frequency will go for one cable to the other, which causes nasty, unwanted noise on your DC signals. Crossing AC and DC wires at an angle of 90' is OK, but not parallel.
If it's not possible to rewire your setup, than at least shield your cables.
Bill Benner wrote a nice long article here on PL about shielding and grounding.

Remember, the X and Y signals are just 0-5V signals with, let say, 12-bit resolution. 12-bit means ~4000 steps, so one step of X/Y is 12.5 milli volt!
You can imagine what will happen with your laser image if a (small) noise signal is added on top of that small X/Y signal.

Keep up the nice work !

[edison]

Thanks for the comment dixiscan! That is quite helpfull. I wanted a different shielded powersupply but the two 24v powersupply,s came with the raytrack scanset.In the beginning i wanted a different powersupply(http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...115-W/-/1.html ) but i had problems to get it. I placed a topic to order it by someone else at photolexicon but no one responded so i decide it to stick with the powersupplies that came with the raytracks
As for the wires i can wire it a little bit different so that the AC is seperate from the signals. The wires to the scanners are shielded and run from the DMX board ( in the left corner) to the scanset also on the left.
I really apriciate the comment because i want it to build it as good as possible. I will change the wiring of the AC. Thanks dixiscan. As you live also in holland shoot me a PM so you can see it in real life. I have pangolin intro so maybe it,s nice to shear some idea,s for the next one.

[edison]

After some short nights i thought maybe it,s time to shear some new pics from my projector. Some things have to be changed for the next one but the basics are there

Of course the sidepanels need black coating but i just wanted to show how it looks

[hobbybob]

Nice built Edison !
How did you connect the 3 potmeters to externally adjust the colors ?
I see this often but was wondering how it's done ?

Kind regards from a fellow Dutchy...

[mccarrot]

If anyone can give me some advice with adding some things like colorboard or something else to turn this baby into a Professional projector that would be great!!!

Very nice and professional build Looking foreward to see it in real live.

What about adding a safety shutter and interlock.

[DixiScan]

Hey Edison,

Fans:
I'm curious how you gonna work things out with your fan cooling.
I mean, you have 2 compartments, which are more or less air-separated.
You have to use at least 2 good fans to get rid of the warm air inside.
Maybe its even better to use 2x2 fans for your RGB.

Interlock:
You can use the interlock pins in an easy and professional way:
Take a +24V and lead this to pin 4 of your ILDA connector.
The return signal, pin 17, activates a relay which switches off the main power of your case, in case the ILDA cable is pulled out.
Do not use this pin4-to-pin17 shortcut in series with your blanking signal; this will reduce the 0-5V signal too much.

[mccarrot]

I would not use 24V for the interlock, but 5V instead.

The 25 pin SubD is not the best connector in the world and its easy to make a short between Pin 4 and pin 5 by mistake and killing your red.

I have used a solid state relais controled by a 5v interlock signal in my projector.

[DixiScan]

Well, the most important thing is that the relay gets the right -and enough voltage to work. If you have a, let say, 25m ILDA cable, the total current travel is 50m. As you said, the subD are not quite good. Bad connectors can give high(er) resistance, so your 5V will drop immediately, also because of this long cable length.
About this pin 4 to 5 shortcut, I assume his is using shrink collar around the signal pins? Remember, he is building a projector as professional as possible.