Laserscope Modification Just Finished!

[prodjallen]

Most of the di filters i see are black, what color is it suppose to be? brown or white? Mine also has like little orange oil beads (or at least looks like) in it. Then the power isn't super steady at all either, it flickers a bit a lower power, but not at higher currents, or if it does, i cant visibly see it...

I just got my 6860 Scanners/drivers/ps in the mail today, with huge looks like 10mm mirrors on it, and a spectronika colimator/beam expander. I got them from Simon.

-Allen

[gogu]

As far as i know di resin should be dark brown, orange is a sign that it needs changing. You would need to measure the water conductivity to make sure though. 5uS and lower should be ok as far as i've read, but i'm sure the guys here can provide more accurate information.

edit:
And for measuring the conductivity you can probably pick up something fairly cheap at a aquarium/fish store or something like this http://cgi.ebay.com.sg/ws/eBayISAPI....m=250472700605
Easiest way to get a reading is to unscrew the particle filter ad place the meter in particle filter housing, (the water tank not sure if you can reach all the way in)

cheers

[mixedgas]

[QUOTE=gogu;110424]As far as i know di resin should be dark brown, orange is a sign that it needs changing. You would need to measure the water conductivity to make sure though. 5uS and lower should be ok as far as i've read, but i'm sure the guys here can provide more accurate information.

8 megs per square cm minimum.

Depends on the Cart material, but the one in the pic is shot.

Steve

[Laserman532]

nah...the one ya got there is juuuuusssssst fine trust me... yours appears to have gone from green to black...algae will do that

pour 1 quart of lime away in there...that will clear it up.

i mean...most of the ones you have seen are black...OBTW...how many have you seen?

[prodjallen]

I had 4 of them and sold 3 for $3200 a piece... they were all like either brown/black with like lil oil droplet looking things in the water... I thought that was weird...

[mixedgas]

I had 4 of them and sold 3 for $3200 a piece... they were all like either brown/black with like lil oil droplet looking things in the water... I thought that was weird...

Algae , that explains some of the dynamic instability. Do you even know your lamp amperage?


You need to shut that system down, clean it up, and start from the basics, like a calibrated wattmeter , actually two of them one say 0-35 watts and then one for 0-150 watts, and find a laserscope service optic.
You need a current display, and you need to start properly sequencing the RF low and high settings on startup and shutdown. You DO NOT tweek a laserscope for max green power, you tweek it for IR and the green comes along for the ride.

Let me tell you something about krypton long arc lamps.
If you run them at a higher current, they want to go back to the higher current and get unstable at the lower current. It has to do with the conditioning of the electrodes emissive layer. Run a lamp at 38 instead of 36, and it wants to be a 38 lamp the rest of its life. Then when you try to start it at
36, it wont start until you try 38 or higher. You also need to cycle them down, they do NOT like a sudden turn off from high currents. If you dont cycle them down, the next start is a hard start on the lamp, and starts are what kill them, for the most part. That CPU and the "BS INTERLOCKS", including the intracavity shutter, are there for a reason. If thats not happening now, it will as the lamp ages. How many hours are on that lamp? Was it serviced on time at 500 hours? Oh wait, there went the hour meter with the CPU. As did the lamp ramping on initial start and the giant pulse kill.


35 Kv peak to peak damped ringing wave, maybe 35 nanoseconds long,plus a boost voltage of up to 1500V across the lamp dumped from a cap. That tends to blast out electrode material, which builds up on the lamp walls, causes localized heating, a explosion,and kowabunga dude!, you suddenly find you need a flowtube and a rod and some optics.

A possible dumb move was selling your parts spares.

Do you know what Giant Pulsing is ? Grey Tracking?

And you should know, Laserman532 is MR Entertainment Laserscope,not the laserscope factory. He founded the company that made the KTP under license exclusively for entertainment. I'd listen to him. He's forgotten more then I'll ever know about green yag.


Steve

[aijii]

Then you have a dynamic instability in your system.
Should be silent.

Steve

Can you explain this a little further please steve ?

[Laserman532]

you dont happen to have a picture of all four of them lined up do you?

too much information steve - you are telling someone how to make it more powerful (or reach spec) baby steps...

[mixedgas]

you dont happen to have a picture of all four of them lined up do you?

too much information steve - you are telling someone how to make it more powerful (or reach spec) baby steps...

Aye, Aye, Sir!

Steve

[prodjallen]

I'm waiting for my LED current display, should be here in a week or so, mine runs at full power at around 32-33 Amps, right now I just view the current from the test points via volt meter, and as for the lamp, it had 196 when I got it, now it has like 205, it was pretty new... When I got all four of them, they were from a hospital...So really low hours on most of the units between 150-1000-hours, even with my on-board computer on the laserscope, I still have hours counted... And no pat i dont have a picture of all four of them, I found the buyers first, before, then shipped out the units to them right away, no time to play with them or do anything, only fire-up for test...