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Thread: Settings 473nm oem

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Just be sure that when you start adjusting not to just start twiddling. You need to make the *tiniest* of movements (like less than a degree of movement), then wait for several minutes before moving again. Sometimes you will see a change in power immediately, but then after a few minutes it will start to climb or fall as temperature loading is affected in other parts of the assembly.

    For example; you adjust the diode tec, it improves power , but after a few minutes the change causes the crystals to become hotter or colder and drops the whole assembly out of tune = power goes right down again, so you adjust the crystal tec; power goes up but now the diode is out of tune with the crytals again = power goes down

    Be pepared to spend a *long* time with this adventure.

    It can be worth it though, after spending another few hours on my CNI 150; it is now stable at 237mW (started at 117mW)

    I'm pretty sure that when a module is manufactured; they must set everything as close as possible with meters, measure the power, then sell them as whatever they end up as. I really can't see it would be viable to idividually set every module up as carefully as you would yourself, given the free time.

    Ian
    http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/3985/laser.gif

    Doc's website

    The Health and Safety Act 1971

    Recklessly interfering with Darwin’s natural selection process, thereby extending the life cycle of dim-witted ignorami; thus perpetuating and magnifying the danger to us all, by enabling them to breed and walk amongst us, our children and loved ones.





  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Italy
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    I already started to carefully experimenting, and I can see precisely what you say.

    I took couple of extra pics, in order to identify the meaning the trimmers.

    I also opened the laser body to see wich pin are feeding the TECs, but unfortunately "NO NUDE SUNBATHING IS ALLOWED" in these pics....
    Anyway, at the moment I didn't touched yet w1 and w4
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CIMG1192.JPG  

    CIMG1191.JPG  

    CIMG1178.JPG  

    CIMG1195.JPG  

    CIMG1197.JPG  


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    My method would be:

    • Measure the voltage across the two [050] resistors, I suspect this to be the current sense.
    • Modulate the laser externaly to be sure.
    • If this IS the current sense resistor, write down the values for fully on and off.[these will be your safe return]
    • Check, by turning the blue pots slightly, and one by one, if they affect the current, both modulated on and off.
    • If one of the pots doesn't affect the current in any way, this is probably the TEC pot.
    • Measure the voltage between ground and the middle-pin of the tec pot, check if it stays constant during warm-up. If it's stable write it down.(If its 0v take another pin) [this will be you safe return]
    • Fiddle with this pot to optimize the output at your own risk.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Doc said
    It can be worth it though, after spending another few hours on my CNI 150; it is now stable at 237mW
    Bloody hell Doc ... if i had known i could have squeezed 240mW out of it i wouldnt have sold it to you

    seriously though ... well done mate ...

    and expect a long line of people at your door with lasers in hand all wanting you to double their power

    all the best ... Karl

  5. #15
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    Italy
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    Thanks a lot to everybody here, expecially to -Bart- and Doc.
    All your support, including a good sense of humor is soo welcome.


  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Italy
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    Default Updates

    My latest findings:
    on resistors labelled "RS" there are 219mV at full power and 6.8 mV in standby.
    Trimmer w4 is the only one that affects any change in that value and vas set slightly above saturation. I turned it down closer to the point between 219 and 218 mV. (Maybe it will affect the turn on edge of the laser).
    One pin of w3 goes to the test point S2. I see that the corresponding test point T2 stay at 0V until i turn w3. Then it will jump up positive or negative (even more than 1V) and then slowly stabilize back to 0V.
    Evidently it shows some sort of feedback error from the temp. setpoint
    Same behaviour on trimmer W2 and test points S1 and T1
    Stay tuned...

  7. #17
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banthai View Post
    Doc said

    Bloody hell Doc ... if i had known i could have squeezed 240mW out of it i wouldnt have sold it to you

    seriously though ... well done mate ...

    and expect a long line of people at your door with lasers in hand all wanting you to double their power

    all the best ... Karl
    its not all that hard to tune most lasers
    just takes some time.
    in most cases u dont even have to touch the diode current settings
    just temptuning can result in lost more power
    Do not look into laser with remaining eye
    Need laser repair contact me !!!!!!

  8. #18
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    Aug 2007
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    Italy
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    After many hours of attempts, is now lasing just at 59 mW and looks quite Tem 00....

    But I won't give up

    EDIT: 15 minutes power off and a 100mm aluminum baseplate to dissipate the heat, reset the beam back to at least 70mw and TEM 0.

    edit: and now, after a patient struggle it is up to 84mW
    Last edited by Pitopito; 08-09-2009 at 12:37. Reason: Updates

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    i have a similar lion blue i will be curious how much extra you can get out of it, which pot did you use to tune?

  10. #20
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    I'm using W2 and W3 (for some reasons, W1 at full power seems uneffective)
    W4 acts as a diode regulator, but is not giving more than what was already set.
    Anyway, I'm just struggling to get at least what I payed (I still get 84mW instead than 100 nominal)
    It's amazing that I have another Lion green, with a nominal 150mw wich is giving a whopping 389mw at power up and then a stable 225mw after 10 min....!!

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