labby heatsinks-what features would you want?

[Lazerjock]

I made my own labby mounts with the Flex Mod mounted to the top. You do need to electrically isolate the mount. I changed out the heat sink that comes with the Flex Mod for a larger one since I'm running two diodes in parallel.

No Fins are required on the mount. The thermal load is easily distributed through the mount. I have run the diodes for many hours non-stop without a problem.

In most professional projectors the beams are 2" above the bread board. I made stand offs to rase my beam height since all of my mirror mounts and scanners were already 2".

Lazerjock

[MisterWilling]

This thread is really going somewhere, great idea starting it ndrew2505.

@misterwilling- if the diode is recessed and direct fit like you mentioned how would people be able to press diodes into it? youd have to make a special diode press wouldnt you?(depending on how deep its set in) i want to make it usable for everyone so atm the direct press isnt seeming as good as i though originally thought. not to mention soldering the lasorb to the diode pins would be a pain in or out of the direct press sinks b/c the lasorb is bigger so you couldnt find a way to press the diode once the lasorb was connected..

You would just use the aluminum plug to press the diode in, I have used this method on some custom hosts, but I think tocket has a better idea then a diode press.
Instead of press fitting the diode in, just slip fit it into place. Then instead of a solid aluminum plug, use a threaded piece of aluminum the holds the diode into place and has a hole drilled through it for the pics and wires.

[ndrew2505]

would the retaining rings need to be made or can they be bought pre-made from some where?

[sugeek]

would the retaining rings need to be made or can they be bought pre-made from some where?

I know there are pictures on PL from older hosts but I couldn't find the verbage to look the old threads up. You could use aluminum pipe stock run through a die set and tap the hole from the rear which runs basically a few millimeter sized washer in that sets the diode in place into a 4.5mm+ hole of course groves in the 'washer' to allow it to be screwed in then the aixiz lens in front. That setup would be ideal, I hate pressing in diodes. Now only if we could get CD-burner manufacturers to use 1.5 watt 635nm reds!

-Adam

[ndrew2505]

Now only if we could get CD-burner manufacturers to use 1.5 watt 635nm reds!

-Adam

lol fat chance i buy a type of module that has retaining rings already made with their modules. ill see if they can sell just the rings the next time theyre online.

[ndrew2505]

so is that all the ideas we can come up with for now? sorry i havent posted back much but i got fired b/c my old boss was a d*ck and ive been a little busy lately looking for a job. if you guys can think of anything else let me know and ill try to organize them into something we can all use.

[tocket]

There is also the issue of polarization and being able to rotate the diode. This is the main advantage of a round diode housing. Of course the disadvantage is that it becomes a headache to mount it. Perhaps you can combine the two in a smart way, using a round inner housing that fits into one with a flat base. The interface between them is probably a good place to add the electrical insulation.

[CRFultz]

There is also the issue of polarization and being able to rotate the diode. This is the main advantage of a round diode housing. Of course the disadvantage is that it becomes a headache to mount it. Perhaps you can combine the two in a smart way, using a round inner housing that fits into one with a flat base. The interface between them is probably a good place to add the electrical insulation.

I was thinking that the polarization was related to the orientation of the diode itself. The diode has the three divots I'm guessing they use for placement along with the pins. If the two diodes were seated with the orientation of the divots/pins that were 90 degrees out, would this be the correct position for correct polarization? I don't have a LPM, so how do I know for sure they are placed correctly? If i mark the modules so I know where the bottom divot is, can I just rotate one of them so the mark is 90 degrees from the other?

[Laserman532]

yes but you need a starting point...they might be 90 degrees with respect to each other but they might not match the orientation required for optimal performance with a PBS cube

[CRFultz]

yes but you need a starting point...they might be 90 degrees with respect to each other but they might not match the orientation required for optimal performance with a PBS cube

If the front of the both mounts has a mark that should get me close right? As long has both marks are 90 degrees out?