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Thread: RGV build start. Need help with 532nm selection

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Orlando, Florida
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    Quote Originally Posted by sugeek View Post
    I have seen others with the aixiz module use a flexmod (red/IR) driver for analog modulation, $35 for a driver and an extra $10 for a lasorb. Then you can keep using that little guy, and save up for bigger lasers in your next projector.

    reference to picture http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...?t=8834&page=2

    Thats my rig in the pic. I love the FlexMod driver. Dr. Lava personally helped me set it up at SELEM this year. Note that pic was taken before I installed the circuit board stand offs. I just thread them between the fins of the heat sink on the laser. The spacing is almost perfect for the FlexMod mounting holes.

    If your looking to save money and you don't need tons of power, I would recommend this setup.

    The beam doesn't move on my laser, but if you drive them too hard I've seen it happen.

    Lazerjock

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northern Indiana
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lazerjock View Post
    Thats my rig in the pic. I love the FlexMod driver. Dr. Lava personally helped me set it up at SELEM this year. Note that pic was taken before I installed the circuit board stand offs. I just thread them between the fins of the heat sink on the laser. The spacing is almost perfect for the FlexMod mounting holes.

    If your looking to save money and you don't need tons of power, I would recommend this setup.

    The beam doesn't move on my laser, but if you drive them too hard I've seen it happen.

    Lazerjock

    My laser actually mode hopes at lower currents. it will work ok for now. the problem is only really visible on yellow graphics and beams.

    what current and power do you run yours at? mine uses .5amp to get 50mw out (ir filtered)

  3. #13
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    Sep 2008
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    Orlando, Florida
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    Thats funny, mine is exactally the same current and output.

    I added an IR filter too. There is virtually no IR block from the manufacturer.

    Still a good little system in my opinion.

    Lazerjock

  4. #14
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    Northern Indiana
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    replaced the mirrors on the greeks with some silvered i had around. was actually really easy. just heated the shaft on the galvo with the soldering pencil and off they came. used 5mni epoxy and was off and running in about an hour. Tried to take some beam shots but my camera picks up the 405nm as a magenta color or not at all. in this pic the 405 looks really blue on the "p" but the "box" looks really yellow when it is bright white to the naked eye. it is projected on a beige semi-gloss oil painted door. gonna try my older nikon later to see how it captures the 405nm.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_1123.JPG  


  5. #15
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    Jul 2009
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    Dallas, Tx
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    I just got my galvo's (scanpro 40kpps older style) and I have the same problem with my mirrors. How hard was it replace them and align them when you epoxy them on? I'm afraid if I change my mirrors out that I won't be able to blue them back on correctly, should I just try to find mirrors of equivilent size that will reflect blu-ray?

  6. #16
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    Feb 2008
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    Northern Indiana
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterWilling View Post
    I just got my galvo's (scanpro 40kpps older style) and I have the same problem with my mirrors. How hard was it replace them and align them when you epoxy them on? I'm afraid if I change my mirrors out that I won't be able to blue them back on correctly, should I just try to find mirrors of equivilent size that will reflect blu-ray?

    First, find silvered mirrors that are the same size and thickness. here is how i got my aligned. because my galvos are square in shape i just clamped one to my aluminum work surface. you may have to leave yours in the mount or make a jig to hold the galvo firmly. then i put a small piece of 3/8 aluminum under the mirror. use a sharpie to color the top of the aluminum shim before you start. i used index cards and printer paper under the aluminum to shim it to just touch the underside of the mirror. then clamp down the shim block. next i scribed a line on each side of the mirror with a exacto into the sharpied shim. heat the mirror and take it of. clean out the slot with the knife. put 5 min epoxy on the shaft( only need a little) slide your new mirror in and align it to you scribe marks. let it sit about 30 min and do the second galvo. worked great for me.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Dallas, Tx
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    Thanks, that sounds like a good technique that i should be able to repeat. Before I go around searching, where did you find your mirrors?

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