To quote you: "which leads me to believe my FB3 is playing up"...
It's 3am, I'm gonna go cry in my sleep ...
Luckily I'm not thinking 100% or I'd probably be a lot more annoyed about this, I guess I'll find out in the morning
Hey guys, I have been shooting emails back and forth to Pangolin, and they say what I describe isn't a possible failure way for the FB3. As a est of interest, I removed the DMX board and tried the direct scanner output, and it worked again!
So now it seems the problem is with my DMX board.
Wow I am relieved
I think it's more likely a dodgy connection, either between the FB3 and the ILDA connector on your projector, or between any of the FB3's modules. Your changing around the DMX board just perturbed things enough to fix it up.
My guess is a bit of conductive crap bridged X and Y signal lines... are you running differential, or single-ended?
I'm only running single ended. I've looked over the DMX board many times but can't find anything wrong with it. But like I said, it works fine without the DMX board, but when I put it on the signals get messed up.
Check your ground connection between the ILDA cable and the scan amps....
If this is off you will see roughly what you describe (But I would expect it to slope the other way).
A 1.5V battery across the appropriate pins on the ILDA port (you will need to jumper the interlock) is a useful way to test these things.
My betting is either a wiring short or a ground reference problem.
Regards, Dan.
personally, I'd lose that DMX board permanently..
Isn't the FB3 a DMX card in it's own right? If so, why would you still need the original cheap DMX? I don't have an FB3, so I'm not sure, but I was under the impression that the FB3 can function as a DMX card. The pics I've see show a DMX addressing DIP switch..