Having a large mass of aluminum all by itself isn't the answer. You also want more surface area to get rid of the heat.
In some situations, a large mass can actually be a problem, since it will hold more heat. Thus if it gets too hot it will just sit there and bake for a long while even after you shut it down.
I don't know how hot these 640 nm diodes run, but I'd want at least a few fins cut in that block of aluminum...
Adam
If its not practical to cut your own, is it better to make the ali block smaller and attach a proper heatsink block with thermal tape/paste?I don't know how hot these 640 nm diodes run, but I'd want at least a few fins cut in that block of aluminum
That, or better yet mount it on a TEC...
Adam
or even two tecs as on mine
http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...?t=9166&page=2
I think my heatsink is big enough
The red and blue modules are connected to it by special 3mm thermal pads.
I like your design very much decix, great job!
My new 2W RGB will also be made out of a big heatsink, only one layer and up side down like this:
I really like the "external fins" approach, I am doing this with the heatsink I used for my DT-40 pro amps. I'll take a picture when I get home. I salvaged the heatsink from a Parker Compumotor stepper motor driver, leftover in the parts pile after I decided to go with servos on my little homemade mill.
Getting the heat from the galvo drivers dissapated to the outside is the most important because these are usually the biggest heat producers in the entire projector.
-Mike
Hi Decix,
what lenses did you use on the 405's, and do you know how much power is lost in them?
cheers,
Matthijs