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Thread: Fb3 worth it?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by 300EVIL View Post
    Thank you! That's what I built mine around. I spent big money on the DC-DC converter to get a very clean +/- 12VDC signal.


    That's a nice little custom card you got there! I like the layout..

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaserGuy216 View Post
    And ANYONE who has even owned a motorola razr would know that the mini USB port goes bad after about a year and a half....
    (a) The newer FB3s have a full size type B USB port.

    (b) The only reason the Razr USB port went bad was because Motorola used a shitty quality one; three years on, the one on my Nokia is still perfect.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaserGuy216 View Post
    1. This DAC doesnt allow for 100% FULL laser power output.
    This is really not true. DZ had it right. Look at the output with a scope and you will see. Also, as others mentioned, an assumption is made that there will be more than one beam being output (more than one track). And finally, as someone else said, adjustments can be made to the software to "tune" the assumptions that are made to optimize output power based on the skill level of the user (we really have to make the assumption that the user has never used laser before and so we need to err on the side of safety and ease of use).

    Quote Originally Posted by LaserGuy216 View Post
    2. The mini USB is going to fail after a few years, or less
    The FB3 is available in standard B-type USB connector as well as Mini-B.

    As for wearing out, I've had the same Blackberry (with mini-B) since 2002 and the USB connector is still good...


    Quote Originally Posted by LaserGuy216 View Post
    and this sucks as when its connection is lost with the computer you get an error of FULL ON white laser beam of DEATH that goes off in some random area of the dance floor...... this is no good, or even safe
    Sure it isn't, but we don't believe this kind of condition is possible with the FB3. If you could prove that it is, please write to me and we'll check it out.

    One thing I HAVE seen (and it pisses me off) is laser projectors that use TTL lasers whose inputs float high (in other words, if you disconnect the ILDA connector, you get a nice full-power beam out of it) and moreover have low input impedance. We HAVE seen it so that if the power is interrupted to the FB3 (or any other laser controller), you will get a static beam out of the projector. But this isn't the fault of the FB3, it's the fault of the laser projector and lasers used. TTL lasers (especially those that float high) don't conform to the ILDA ISP standard. I try to educate laser projector manufacturers within our Projector Connections article here:
    http://www.pangolin.com/resguide12.htm

    One thing I will say is that as a result of the article (and translation into Chinese and Japanese), laser projectors have come a long way even in the one year that the article has come out. A year ago I saw multiple fires! started by Chinese projectors by simply powering-down the laser controller or disconnecting the projector. Slowly that problem, and others, are being dealt with.

    Bill

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by LaserGuy216 View Post
    FULL ON white laser beam of DEATH that goes off in some random area of the dance floor...... this is no good, or even safe

    Shouldn't the beam be physically prevented from going into the audience?
    CLICKY!!!

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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pangolin View Post

    As for wearing out, I've had the same Blackberry (with mini-B) since 2002 and the USB connector is still good.. Bill
    Well This sucks for me as I have had 2 cell phones & 1 FB3 with an connection errors. cell phones dont charge when pluged in or my FB3 goes out in the middle of a show and gives a BEAM OF DEATH.....

    ohh and I love my FB3, just not the mini-B (sucks A$$).... and you say I need to prove it? whats this about Prove what I dont lie and have nothing to gane from lying. I have called and talked to your tech crew and this is an error they have never experienced before. Come on bill... I have better things to do then start sh&% & spread lies....

    So that does this mean you'll look at it and repair this problem??? Im sure I can pull up some system logs that show you errors & some pangolin email support mails that livepro wanted to send you....
    Lasers, Lights, Music, Action!

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laser Ben View Post
    Shouldn't the beam be physically prevented from going into the audience?
    sure thing my gm20 stops all, BUT this is a bad thing as my FB3 then needs to be unplugged and livepro gets shutdown & restarted after the computer finds the FB3.... now if I hold it just the right way.... it works all night with no errors, but more it just the right way...... AND BANG.... livepro errors out........ Ive tried different PC's, different ILDA cables, different usb cables, still I get the same error....

    So my cell phone works in the same way, plug it in and no charge, but wrap that cable around the cell phone and BANG its starts to charge..... Ive tried different outlets, different charging adaptors... and still the same thing.....

    Sounds to me Like I have bad usb ports on some of my gadgets
    Lasers, Lights, Music, Action!

  7. #27
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    The laser coming on at full power when the FB3 disconnected ISN'T a fault with the FB3. Try unplugging the ILDA connector with the projector powered on, does it come on as well? My projector does it too, it's extremely annoying, though I am thinking about ways to stop it (Don't have a shutter yet)

  8. #28
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    Bill mentioned the reason for this: Chinese laser drivers that allow the laser to run at full intensity if the modulation input is unconnected. That modulation line should not float. But on a lot of Chinese drivers (especially TTL drivers) it does float, thus with no signal applied the laser is ON.

    This is in violation of the ILDA spec. It's not Pangolin's fault. (Note that the same thing will happen if you yank the USB cable out of an Easylase USB controller.)

    More to the point, it should never be a "FULL ON white laser beam of DEATH that goes off in some random area of the dance floor"... If the beam ends up on the dance floor, then you are doing something wrong. Namely, you don't have a projector mask. Thus, a scanner failure (or even a mirror failure) will cause the exact same thing. This is addressed in 21 CFR 1040.10.

    Worst case, it should be a white beam that is overhead (and terminates on a safe object), or else a white beam that is blocked by a mask on the projector.

    Do you mean to tell us that you're doing commercial shows in Ohio without a hard mask on your projector, and you've had static beams hit the dance floor before? Because if so, I'd say that you are operating your projector in an unsafe manner. More importantly, I'd like to know how you ever got a variance for that projector without a mask on the aperture...

    Adam

  9. #29
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    ^I'm curious what are the best methods for masking? I've heard of using cinefoil, but I can't seem to find a reasonably prices source for small amounts..

  10. #30
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    Cool

    Honestly, my opinion is that the *best* material to use is metal. Cut a sheet of aluminum or steel that is wider than your aperture, and then drill out slots on either side of it. Bolt it on the face of your projector with some star washers, and then move the mask up until the edge of the metal is at least even with the highest edge of the last mirror the beams bounce off of before leaving your projector. Now cinch the bolts down tight, and it shouldn't ever move.

    With this arrangement, it's impossible to send a beam out that is lower than the horizontal. So assuming a flat floor, if your projector is 10 ft off the floor to start with, you are golden.

    The slots allow you to loosen the bolts and adjust the mask up if you need to, which may be required if the floor slopes up away from the stage, requiring you to keep the beams higher than horizontal to maintain the 10 ft separation.

    The Kvant projectors have a plate on the aperture that works like this.

    I suppose in a pinch, Cinefoil would work, but I don't know where you'd buy it apart from a camera shop. (Wouldn't it tend to burn through?)

    I've seen silver mylar tape used a few times, and it's easy to find. Not exactly as safe as a metal mask, but better than nothing...

    Adam

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