FS: Laserman532 OCTOMOM 8 Diode Beam Combiner!

[Phritzler]

Hello!
Much companys work on get such builds stable, but didn´t get it stable becouse they havent enought knowhow on the complete range of lasers, materials, optics, etc... Or they want it only build as cheap as possible.
Still how I looked on the posts here, especially for the mirrormounts, which are made out of aluminium and are anodized. Really nice looking - but have you or someone other here really tested it on "hard case"? I didn´t think that the producer of it has put a thought on like stress relief annealing etc... I bet these mount thisadjusting fast, also becouse of the soft material aluminium you cant give the hold as much stress as it needs to be stable - if you give a bit to much stress the thread will pull out.
Next step is polecube holder and the 45° mirrorholder - sorry, but this holders all other than long time stable - fully useless for builds like that.
Tec would be a nice think - but is useless if you can hold the temperature in a good range - becouse how we know the electrical isolation foil also likes really to isolate heat - it isn´t that good heat conductor. With the tec you will also everytime have a big difference on the temperature of laserdiode/housing to the diodemounts - and this is also a point of disadjusting (so that why I use driver which drives on GND , so you mustn´t isolate the diodes itself - its way more stable).
Also its more professional to make a own mount which is higher for get the 2 diodes higher - and not put a small block aluminium under it.

Please, this is only for think - no critic. Becouse its a onjekt for hobbyists which haven´t that problems with adjust something sometimes...
Greets,
Phil

[Doc]

a cover is no problem, i wont supply it, because it is just sheet metal or plexi,

but it is the basic starting point for a 8 diode set - up...frankly, i doubt Ill even sell ONE unit...but it was fun designing!

but yeah, thanks!

You might be selling one to moi in late January with a couple of customizations (metric threads to match the rest of the projector for instance; if that's possible?)


The reason I was worried about the inch was a dimension I had in my head for module clearance.

I forgot I moved my galvo drivers so I have plenty of room

[Laserman532]

Hello!
Much companys work on get such builds stable, but didn´t get it stable becouse they havent enought knowhow on the complete range of lasers, materials, optics, etc... Or they want it only build as cheap as possible.
Still how I looked on the posts here, especially for the mirrormounts, which are made out of aluminium and are anodized. Really nice looking - but have you or someone other here really tested it on "hard case"? I didn´t think that the producer of it has put a thought on like stress relief annealing etc... I bet these mount thisadjusting fast, also becouse of the soft material aluminium you cant give the hold as much stress as it needs to be stable - if you give a bit to much stress the thread will pull out.
Next step is polecube holder and the 45° mirrorholder - sorry, but this holders all other than long time stable - fully useless for builds like that.
Tec would be a nice think - but is useless if you can hold the temperature in a good range - becouse how we know the electrical isolation foil also likes really to isolate heat - it isn´t that good heat conductor. With the tec you will also everytime have a big difference on the temperature of laserdiode/housing to the diodemounts - and this is also a point of disadjusting (so that why I use driver which drives on GND , so you mustn´t isolate the diodes itself - its way more stable).
Also its more professional to make a own mount which is higher for get the 2 diodes higher - and not put a small block aluminium under it.

Please, this is only for think - no critic. Becouse its a onjekt for hobbyists which haven´t that problems with adjust something sometimes...
Greets,
Phil

Thank you phil for your input.

TEC's will be sand witched between the bottom of this plate and another plate. the four holes in the corner are to bolt down to another piece of alluminum with the TECS in between. I do have a (diode back to back design) which would center the diodes but scrapped that design for ease of getting to the diodes.

The tiny adjustable mounts by CHAD are going to be review in detail by 300evil is my understanding. Stay tuned in for more info.

I might disagree on the stability of the adjustable mounts for routing mirror and PBS cube as they are industry standards for many years. You may be right but they are also adjustable and are only used for spots overlap of each leg and they are adjustable. Mechanically stable? Still to be determined.

I would agree that the riser blocks are not the ideal solution, but I was trying to use my standard parts, not machine something new for a product that most likely no one will purchase. Electrical isolation material is MIL spec sil-pad designed for heat transfer, you may be right but its the best I can supply.

It is a inexpensive KIT which hobbiest can have fun with and hopefully improve on. This is a very complex project that is not for the faint hearted.

I do appreciate your input phil, no offense is taken by any constructive comments. Keep in mind this is a KIT for hobbiest not a "product" that will have to be reproduced reliably and sold into the general populous.

pat b

[themadscientist]

I think it is a beautiful & creative piece of engineering....as an amateur laser enthusiast I would have tons of fun working with this. Thanks for sharing your ideas and work. Great Job!!

David

[chad]

Hello!
Much companys work on get such builds stable, but didn´t get it stable becouse they havent enought knowhow on the complete range of lasers, materials, optics, etc... Or they want it only build as cheap as possible.
Still how I looked on the posts here, especially for the mirrormounts, which are made out of aluminium and are anodized. Really nice looking - but have you or someone other here really tested it on "hard case"? I didn´t think that the producer of it has put a thought on like stress relief annealing etc... I bet these mount thisadjusting fast, also becouse of the soft material aluminium you cant give the hold as much stress as it needs to be stable - if you give a bit to much stress the thread will pull out.
Phil

Well A couple of things.

I have been working with laser display in some form or another for 24 years as a hobbyist and a paid professional. I have also been designing and machining things for the same amount of time. I have a pretty good understanding of electronics, optics, materials and laser. I don't claim to know everything but I am definitely not a noob.

First, yes they are aluminum and they are anodized, I also did take into consideration stress relief and annealing, and did not see a good reason to do it. First it would push the price much higher, I already have people bitching about the price. Second, most of the stress in alum extruded bar is in the skin. I remove .018" around every surface. Most of the internal stress is relieved just in the act of machining. Third just what in the hell do you think we are doing here in these? The second you turn a screw you induce stress into the aluminum, hence the "flex" in flex mount.

If someone is tightening hard enough to strip out a thread then they are trying to get too much flex out of it. I made it very clear this is just for fine adjustment and it is not intended to be a mm1. Brass is pretty close to aluminum in thermal expansion, tensile strength and compressive strength. It is also about 3 times the price, see above 'bitching'.

This is primarily a hobbyist forum. We all expect to have to tweak things a little, I guarantee that even the 'elite' have to fine tune things a little. The only real way around this would to manufacture everything out of Invar and thermally stabilize the entire projector. Every laser wanders a 'little' nothing is ever really and truly 'stable'.

I made these mounts because I wanted some and couldn't find any to buy. I have the machinery and the skill. I will be lucky if I can break even when considering the machinery, tooling, rent, my pay, tooling, cad, cam and a million other things that cost money.

I thought that people would like an affordable way to fine tune a beam position. The octomom would not be feasible (for most) if it were not for my, non annealed mounts. Nine mm1s at $50 a pop would push it out of most hobbyists fun budget.

I have great respect for your big red project. You were the first "hobbyist?" to attempt a big combine project and for this I applaud you.
But please don't assume that all of us are backwards ignoramuses that are incapable of creative thought and analyzing potential weaknesses. Some of us have been around the block a time or two. And some of us are paid and earn a living, sitting around designing and manufacturing things for other people.

chad

[mccarrot]

I can get you the brass mounts for probbably better stability for 20 euro each (special PL price)

[dar303]

cmon, isn't it considered bad style to push your own stuff in someone elses for-sale thread?
Nice mounts though!

[chad]

I can get you the brass mounts for prabbably better stability for 20 euro each (special PL price)

Now only trough PM, but soon you can buy them in my webshop

WoW! Really fucking classy.

Not only did you insult my mounts, and steal my improvements on the base design, but you managed to pull off a total douche-bag maneuver and spam two of pat's for sale threads with things that people here are already making and selling.


Stay Classy

chad

[mccarrot]

First of all, I had these mounts long before you ever build them! so who stole the idea from who?

2nd, I only want to help the community get the best products, not to make money on a few mounts.

So people, please only buy chads mounts, but if you find any issues with stability I can help you out.

[dar303]

Please, no more drama on this forum, it is getting very tedious!

Mccarrot, just start your own thread to sell your mounts, they look fine and will propably sell by their own without using some one elses thread.
It is bad manners to go into a Mercedes store and try to make the customers buy BMW's, it's the same here!