First projector help.

[bhwollen]

Please can you update your profile with your location? Then someone in your region can give you pricing.

Will do. I live in California.

Should do, though I think it could be a little big (though you'd have room to spread things out a bit). You should only decide on the dimensions once you know the footprint of every piece of kit you'll be installing on the plate (and don't forget to allow room on the edges for fans and the rear-side of panel mounted items (keyswitches, buttons etc).

I'd rather have extra room then not enough, and plus if I expand with some new wavelengths I wont need to upgrade my base.

Depends what you're mounting! E.g. some parts will need M6, some M5, some M4 and perhaps a few M3. You might want to drill 1mm smaller and then use taps to cut threads into the hole. I layed out the units and tried to get a reasonable alignment without mounting, then carefully mark the positions. Remove everything, drill, tap and reassemble. I did this in incremental stages, so that I could ensure my alignment was as good as possible.

Use a drill press and a vice or clamps to keep the aluminium plate still when drilling.

Allow for not being precise, if a laser module's mounting holes are M6, use M5 instead and give yourself some wiggle room. Instead of trying to get the lasers at the right vertical and horizontal position to intersect the beam through the dichros, use bounce mirrors on flex/2-axis mounts to allow adjustment to the beam positioning.

I am not familiar with using a tap. And I do not understand what you mean by using bounce mirrors on flex/2-axis mounts.

[taggalucci]

I am not familiar with using a tap.

If you want threaded holes in your baseplate, you need to use a threading "tap" to cut the thread. I'm sure there are guides online as to how to do this.

And I do not understand what you mean by using bounce mirrors on flex/2-axis mounts.

Have a look at Norty's projector. He bounces the green and blue first before hitting the dichros. The little mirrors are mounted to small adjustable mounts which allow fine 2 axis movement (X & Y) to help align the beam intersection.

http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...555#post195555

[bhwollen]

Alright guys, I bought some more parts today, I bought 300mW 635nm analog, 300mW 532nm analog, 0.25" x 12" x 24" aluminum plate, DAC, LSX software, metric tap and die set, and a flexmod for my 445. What power should I run the 445 at? It there a tutorial to set up a flexmod? All I need is some dichro mounts, and to build that 445. The I will build the whole case and everything with the fans. What am I forgetting?

[allthatwhichis]

I would get an ILDA breakout board. I'd go with Rob's, stanwax as it has all the goodies for safety on it. If nothing else get a GM20 for a shutter even if this is never going to leave your house.

[bhwollen]

Whats an ILDA breakout board for? Shutter? I don't even have a case yet...

[ARGLaser]

http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/ho...ser-56572.html

Thats how to set up the FlexMod P3 for a portable, it explains much of the workings of the flexmod P3 though, should help you set it up for projector use (the user manual should help to).

[bhwollen]

I saw that but it doesn't help with the modulation

[ARGLaser]

Modulation positive to M+ Modulation negative to G (same as voltage negative)

[allthatwhichis]

Whats an ILDA breakout board for? Shutter? I don't even have a case yet...

The breakout board it to help with wiring the ILDA plug to everything inside the case; trust me, you'll like it a lot and avoid a lot of frustration by getting one. The shutter will go on your baseplate jsut before the scanners and is a good idea even if you never put it inside a case.

[bhwollen]

What are all the potentiometers for? I understand one is for current, what about the other two?