Laser-wave | lasermodules | not satisfied

[svandescheur]

Hello People from all over the world,

Recently i have bought some module from Laser-wave and i want to share some information about the modules
I have bought : 2.5W 445, 2W 532 & 1.8W 637

The powers measured with the new laserbee 2.5W usb lpm with a distance of 20cm from the thermopile:

445 = 2W
532= 1.8W
637= 1.8W but have some real beamsplittingproblems...http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...ting-problem-(

The 445 blue module is 500mw LESS than i ordered.
The blue does have a very weird spot on/at the aperture it looks like burned coating or something.



That's why the blue has a very large ugly Noise around the beam spot.. And i think the blue can also a lot of better..
the beam is very wide with the correction optics and does also not fits properly into the large 7mm mirrors of the DT40 pro.
Sometimes the beam is going on the edges from the mirrors and do give some real bad aura/color effects around the pictures !
But i have the scanimage at 100% . I have tried scan images at a lower percentage then it is LESS visible.
Also the little tiny switch on the blue driver has broken..
The 532 green looks bright enough. But has also 200mW losses
The 637 red is worseless !! no one can build a projector with this. the divergence looks more than 10mrad !
I can't even get the beam into the large mirrors of the DT40 pro :S It looks like a very bad multimode diode




*********** UPDATE *************

Blue & Red lasers are back to laser-wave.
customer support is perfect.
they will take a look at it and they even
offered me a free lens for the 532 laser.
I scratched it accidentially.

*********** UPDATE 23-11-2012 *************

Lasers are back, repaired & tested !

After re-alligning the dichro's the pictures & beams looks really nice.
At far field/distance is much better now.
Only little thing is the little cross effect around the red laser dot on the wall,
But i don't care anymore. It gives a good yellow, magenta, cyan, white beams.
Graphics & Colors looks almost perfect to me.

Some new beamshots i have made without fog, only some dust & smoke from cigarette in the room :






For pictures of the projector please take a look here :

http://www.photonlexicon.com/forums/...hp?albumid=335



Only bad thing in Quickshow i don't like is that i need to correct the colorbalance for
every single graphic.. There is not 1 config that i can use for all the images & atmospherics.
Always there is a graphic or else where the colors not matching very well so i need to lower or upper the power of the blue and or green.
And same with the blanking options etc, constanty/continiously i need to change something to get every detail in the pictures correctly. that's worseless i think.
Please who can help me to get 1 setting , so i can play every single graphic, beam or atmospheric perfect without any bad

[norty303]

Out of interest, how are you getting the 5v to measure them CW? Is it from a DAC doing single beam, or are you applying 5v directly, or using the switches on the driver?

[svandescheur]

Hello Mr. Norty

I have used the switch on the driver to set on TTL-H i believe it's CW (continious wave)

i have bought a LPM (laserbee 2.5W usb) it's a very usefull toy now i know that the blue laser is 500 mw underspec.
that is what i actually thought and the beam i think is not bright enough.

Because my 865mW laserpointer looks really brighter in smoke it's unbelievable..
That's because they have put 3 diodes in the laser-wave module probly at 650mW or something.
and they are not combining perfectly so i see 3 lower powered beams than my laserpointer.

[svandescheur]

I will post next week some real logs from my laserbee 2.5W usb LPM when i can get the pics of the saved logs.
You will see some readings from the aperture and the thermopile 1m away and 2m away !
I think i can''t get the red beam into the sensor from that distance ! but i shall try it.

Only worse thing i broke the analog/CW switch of the blue driver.
I can only measure that power with ANALOG signals with scanning 1 single blue beam
in the quickshow software with my flashback 3 QS

[norty303]

Just apply 5v to the modulation lines on the blue to get it to max power. Your DAC doing a single beam may well still modulate the beam, causing it to register lower power.

[svandescheur]

UPDATE... RED & BLUE goes back to laser-wave to inspect & correct.
The customer support is outstanding (means really good isn't it?)
They always reply within 2 days (mostly 1day)
I even scratched my 532 lens accidentially. they offered me a free new lens.
That's really really sweet !
Hopefully they can get the lasers really good now as i hoped for

[Doctorbass]

I had similar problem with my 170mW 637nm laser from the new OEM pro compact serie, but the problem on my side is that the laser is shuting off after 2-3 sec!

If i power my projector, all 3 laser come ON and the blue and green stay active but the red shut off after 2-3 sec.. just like if there is a protection that cut the current... The green LED that is labeled "LASER" on the driver board follow the same rules.. it shut off at the same time that teh laser is shuting off.

I am discutting with Amy from goldenstarlaser to solve this issue.

I have spend like 3 hours yesterday during the night on the chat to test many basic tests...

What i think is that there is a deffective component on the driver baord or that the diode is overcurrent and can't keep up the power...


But the TEC is working and the laser stay cold

any idea?

Doc

[Picasso]

bypass driver board and give laser 5volt, talking about the modulation input.

[Doctorbass]

Well.. I think Amy is slow to REEALLY HELP me in that situation.... Winni might probably offering a better service than Amy... It seem that Amy is suggesting alot of different test but this is not help me to solve the problem at all....

Winni seem to offer more efficient solution than Amy... ( from what i've read on that forum...)

Here is the last email we exchanged:

Amy__ 1. when you choose the music mode , is it the same ?

Doc___ Yes, in music mode the red laser run from few second to few minutes and then shut off and never turn ON again.
Same in Art Mode in Art mode,

Amy___2. can you try this step: just make the red laser work independent, and don't connect to the signal ,and supply the electricity, what happen .

Doc___In this setting ( no connected signal and switch to TTL to force the laser ON) , the laser is always active and never shut off
But when the laser shut down in the normal operation (switch in AS mode) and that i try to force it ON with the switch changed to TTL, the laser stay OFF.
Then if i turn the projector OFF and restart it, the red laser stay reactivate and stay ON.
It's like if the laser turn OFF by itself with switch in AS mode, it will never turn on again... it just stay OFF and if i change the switch to TTL, it also stay OFF
except if i restart the projector by turning the main switch OFF and ON, then the red laser will be ON.
In other words the only way the laser never shut OFF by itself, is when i turn ON the projector with the red laser with switch set to TTL, this is the only way to have the red laser to not shut off by itself



And the last email she sent me:

Amy___Hi stephane Because there is IC on the drive board ,when in the ground, The IC will be interference on the "AS "model
So add insulation paste to below the drive board or add the insulation paste to below the laser


What i think is that since the laser have a delay to shut down by itself for unknown reason, this might be due to 2 different probelm: heat build up... or electronic component that change with temperature or dry capacitor electronic problem type...

But that 170mW red laser is giving me 190mW right at the output of the laser module with calibrated Newport power meter at 637nm so the power seem good.

that laser is also cold.. The TEC seem to work too.

That famous random delay to shutdown make me confused...

Well.. I wonder if i would have zero skill to measure and try to repair what Amy would have suggested me.. maybe to offer a replacement or repair driver board or laser?.. just like Winni would have done ?

I am begining to be tired of dozens of emails, test and pictures and hours of chat during teh night to try solving a problem that is not my fault...

any opinions, suggestions?

Doc

[Doctorbass]

So you suggest to apply 5V to the AS input ( AS seem to be the Analog signal input) and see what happen?

Doc