Need help finishing up my projector

[borgqueenx]

where is the saw you brought to the Minilem ?
That jigsaw will take care of that flightcase easy !

Probabaly stopid question but how?
It needs to be pretty exact...maby draw a line first?
And how do i let the saw enter the wood? Drill a few holes first or something?
During sawing it can rest on the flightcase itself?
And what with corners? Drill again so the saw can turn 90degrees again?
Thanks!

[hobbybob]

Ok, buckle up buddy, here we go !

1. Measure the width and height of the plate

2. Check how far the screws are from the side of the plate and how much you can go "inside" before you hit components. The more the better, but there is a limit.
In other words, check what component is closest to the border and take that distance as the minimum you at least need to cut to make it fit . I think you need at least 1cm to make it strong or at least have some wood left to screw it it.

3. draw the plate-outside and then make a drawing following the outside of the plate but then smaller by the amount found by step 2. So for instance 1 cm, then you have the outline of the plate and another outline of the plate but then 1 cm smaller.
This inside line, lets call it line 2 is your sawline.

4. take a big drill (at least so big that when you drill a hole the jigsaw fits in, i'd say about 10mm is a nice size. If you have a drill of 10mm, then indeed as you said, draw a dot 5mm on the inside of the inside line on all 4 corners. So stay away 5mm from the sawline (on the inside).
If you go 5mm in, if you drill the outside of the hole will just touch the inside of the 2 lines (remember you want wood between line 1 (the outside perimeter of the plate) and line 2 (the saw-line). It would be cool if this 10mm drill is a HSS (metal) drill, since you need it in step 9 again ;-)

5. Then jigsaw from hole to hole, following the inside line (line 2).
Put the saw in the hole, keep the saw down, turn it on, and slowly move towards the sawline you draw, make sure to stay INSIDE the lines (you can always take a file and make the hole bigger, but you cannot "file" extra wood back once you cut it
go from hole to hole, remember to keep the saw down to the case, if you take it out too much the blade could hit the case and kick the saw from your hands, so just slowly follow the lines, after you reached the starting point again the square should fall out.
turn off the saw and take out the powercord (safety first!)...

6. check to see if the plate would screw on.
If not, check where there is too much wood and file this off.

7. Before screwing on the plate, make the holes for the Ilda IN and out in the backplane.

8. Draw the outside of the connectors (mostly the DB25 are 10/11mm high and around 40mm wide).

9. Take the 10mm HSS drill (i told you it would come in handy at step 4) and drill 4 holes next to eachother inside the square you drawed, take a file and file the holes to be a square 10/11mm high and 40mm wide. take a small 2,5 or 3mm drill and drill the holes for the screws on either side of the DB25.
Easiest is to mark 5mm from the side line of the connector, and then 10mm to the side, again 10mm to the side and last again 10mm further. NOW MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SOMETHING SHARP to punch the holes, if the drill moves it easily slips into the previous hole. (Now you understand why i have a drill press ;-)
If you think it's scary then drill hole 1 at 5mm from the side of the db25 you drawed on the backplate, then a whole in the middle at 20mm and then one 5mm from the other side. Now you have to file much more, but you won't risk slipping the drill.
It's your choice.

10. Fit the DB25s.

11. screw plate on wood left around the hole with six short woodscrews (make sure they don't stick out much in the case. Or take metal screws (bolts) with nuts and saw the back of...at least make sure the bolts or screws don't hit any metal/electric parts on the plate.

12. connect all the wires again.

Presto, finito !

You need for this:
1 10mm HSS drill
1 3mm HSS drill (i used 3mm tonight and it worked, the screw was 2,54mm so a 3mm hole with fit !) then you don't need 2,5mm
1 jigsaw
1 drill
1 file wood
1 file max 10mm wide (or file sideways)
1 marker (fineliner waterproof)
1 tape measure or ruler (lineaal)
6 woodscrews 10mm long or 6metal screws (don't know the size of the holes (i think M4 will fit) take them 15mm long, 6 nuts (m4 if your bolts are also m4).
Maybe 6 washers (ringetjes) to put on the inside to hold the backplate better.

All this stuff can be get @ formido ;-)

Good luck... i will go to bed now, and finish the CNC tomorrow hopefully ;-)
So in the future i would be able to make you a nice backplate, if everything goes well.

Let me know if this helped !

[borgqueenx]

fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck!!!

i just drilled all holes and screwed the controller plate to the backside of the flightcase, tried to fire it up, and nothing works anymore!
only the power LED of the AC goes on, and no other LED, laser or fan goes on.

Both the lasers and galvo PSU do not get power anymore, or are suddenly dead.

ofcource i moved the projector before i drilled in the flightcase.

heeeeeeeeelp! SOS!
now im really extremly sad.
so far, so close to completion, and thne this SHIT!!!

Hope someone can reply soon!

[masterpj]

fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck!!!

i just drilled all holes and screwed the controller plate to the backside of the flightcase, tried to fire it up, and nothing works anymore!
only the power LED of the AC goes on, and no other LED, laser or fan goes on.

Both the lasers and galvo PSU do not get power anymore, or are suddenly dead.

ofcource i moved the projector before i drilled in the flightcase.

heeeeeeeeelp! SOS!
now im really extremly sad.
so far, so close to completion, and thne this SHIT!!!

Hope someone can reply soon!

you fired it up and what did you try to use to controll the thing?
I hope you didn't use the dmx thing again.
As it isn't ment to be used with different voltages and newer scanners.
Could be this or something else though.
Don't keep fireing it up now though, because if it's not really killed you will kill it that way.

[borgqueenx]

you fired it up and what did you try to use to controll the thing?
I hope you didn't use the dmx thing again.
As it isn't ment to be used with different voltages and newer scanners.
Could be this or something else though.
Don't keep fireing it up now though, because if it's not really killed you will kill it that way.

i changed nothing. it worked this morning. Today i only drilled holes in the flightcase and screwed the controller plate to the flightcase.

and the dmx set is with the PT-itrust - it is made for it.

i have a multimeter, but i have no idea how it works.

[mophead]

Time for a multimeter tutorial:

Make magazine presents the multimeter.

[borgqueenx]

never mind people!

my panic attack is over

The AC leaded to a red button to power the projector, that red button leaded 2 wires(split into 4 cables later) to the projector.
one of those cables from the red flip button to the cable that goes onto the projector was loose.
I soldered it together with my bro, ducktaped all electronic stuff so it cant touch anything, and now it works again

oh god i never had such a relieved feeling in a loooong time.

only thing left to do now is making 2 holes for the 2 ilda cables, and mount the baseplate on the flightcase.
then its finished, finita, përfunduar, fertig, finis

such a beautiful white color that i have, its perfect! red and green also mix nicely into yellow!
only problem is that i have to keep adjusting the L bracket of the blue dichro everytime i move the projector

[borgqueenx]

all done!
only thing left is to place a UV glass or something for the beam aparture, and get some stickers.
Probaly going for more power modules with analog modulation in the future.

but thats something for at least >45 days from now, so no questions asked now

First thing on my buy list is the Riya Lite from drlava.

Special thanks to hobbybob, and also a big thanks to the other minilem attandees!

im glad its finally finished! cant wait to get the DAC and start building shows! dont know yet what software im going to purchase with it. ILD SOS comes first because its cheap and nice :P

[Doc]

Can you take a close up photograph of the 'L' bracket showing where it is 'stretched'?

If you are using a phone camera then lots and lots of light will help to get a clearer photo.

[borgqueenx]

ofcource here it is
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/3120/lbracket.jpg

made with 780 lumens flashlight, should be enough.