Cheap "analogo" and TTL RGB laser modules off ebay.

[Galvonaut]

Absolutely! Yes, I used Sam's LaserFAQ too. Amazing resource!

[SaltyRobot]

So this past weekend I started changing over my Chinese driver board for FlexMods on one of these Brick lasers. So far the Blue and Red are responding nicely and are true analog modulation now. The issue I am having is with the Green. I performed the same process as the Red and Blue. I obtained the current measurement from the Green using a DMM. The current was around 390mA which is approx double the Red and Blue which were around 180mA. I set the FlexMod for 390mA as described in the documentation provided with the drivers. When I modulate the green using LSX I am seeing the green intermittently flicker as it is trying to change shades, Has anyone seen this before? Is this due to the way green laser is produced and is there a way to eliminate it. I do not have this issue with the Red and Blue. I have tried using the Red driver and bumpped up the current, which did not work so I am eliminating a FlexMod hardware issue at this point. I also do not think it is an LSX issue either. Although I do not have a O-scope to watch the signal using my DMM the current appeared linear and did not jump around. The green laser seems to have less flicker when in the dimmer range but when it gets close to fully on it will flicker. I am testing this with a circle pattern and when I say flicker part of the pattern will be full power while part of the pattern will be at a modulated power. Once the modulation hits 5v the full pattern will snap to full color.

I can take video of this issue if it will help. But I am hoping someone has already seen this issue before.

[swamidog]

your green is probably a pointer core for poor thermal characteristics and it may just be bad at modulation.

think about replacing it with a 520nm diode..

So this past weekend I started changing over my Chinese driver board for FlexMods on one of these Brick lasers. So far the Blue and Red are responding nicely and are true analog modulation now. The issue I am having is with the Green. I performed the same process as the Red and Blue. I obtained the current measurement from the Green using a DMM. The current was around 390mA which is approx double the Red and Blue which were around 180mA. I set the FlexMod for 390mA as described in the documentation provided with the drivers. When I modulate the green using LSX I am seeing the green intermittently flicker as it is trying to change shades, Has anyone seen this before? Is this due to the way green laser is produced and is there a way to eliminate it. I do not have this issue with the Red and Blue. I have tried using the Red driver and bumpped up the current, which did not work so I am eliminating a FlexMod hardware issue at this point. I also do not think it is an LSX issue either. Although I do not have a O-scope to watch the signal using my DMM the current appeared linear and did not jump around. The green laser seems to have less flicker when in the dimmer range but when it gets close to fully on it will flicker. I am testing this with a circle pattern and when I say flicker part of the pattern will be full power while part of the pattern will be at a modulated power. Once the modulation hits 5v the full pattern will snap to full color.

I can take video of this issue if it will help. But I am hoping someone has already seen this issue before.

[SaltyRobot]

That makes sense. That is probably why even with the Chinese driver green is pretty much TTL (On or Off) where as the Red and Blue are more chopped (small dashes when heavily modulated). Lots of pink is created when trying to make dim white.

Can you expand on this to teach me a little more. What would make the 520 different? Or what makes a pointer core different from say a laser wave 100mW 532 (just throwing that out there)?

your green is probably a pointer core for poor thermal characteristics and it may just be bad at modulation.

think about replacing it with a 520nm diode..

[swamidog]

laser pointer cores aren't designed with thermal management in mind. mostly they're just designed to make cheap green when you push the button.

the 520nm diodes are direct injection diodes like your red and blue. there's no frequency doubling, thermal management is much less critical.

you can get raw diodes here:

https://illuminationsupply.com/laser...7#.UpTj92TWePc

or diodes in mounts with lenses here:

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf...nm-laser-diode

That makes sense. That is probably why even with the Chinese driver green is pretty much TTL (On or Off) where as the Red and Blue are more chopped (small dashes when heavily modulated). Lots of pink is created when trying to make dim white.

Can you expand on this to teach me a little more. What would make the 520 different? Or what makes a pointer core different from say a laser wave 100mW 532 (just throwing that out there)?

[SaltyRobot]

Thanks Swami. Been wanting to buy a 520 diode but the bricks been working. I guess now that I am wanting better quality modulation its time to pull the trigger on the 520. Surgery on the brick is going to be fun. (roll eyes) Hell I'm not even sure if surgery on the brick is going to work. LOL

[swamidog]

i have been playing with a little build of single mode red/green/blue laser diodes... you will be blown away.

Thanks Swami. Been wanting to buy a 520 diode but the bricks been working. I guess now that I am wanting better quality modulation its time to pull the trigger on the 520. Surgery on the brick is going to be fun. (roll eyes) Hell I'm not even sure if surgery on the brick is going to work. LOL

[SaltyRobot]

Blown away by how much it cost to make one from scratch? LOL This hobby is a money pit after all.

Yeah for home use I am thinking single mode diode projector is the way to go. Are you finding you need PBS cubes and anamorphic prisms and such to get great results or are you able to just use G2 lens and dichroic lens?

I think this is going to be next spring/summers project for me.

[swamidog]

you don't need cubes and prisms.

Blown away by how much it cost to make one from scratch? LOL This hobby is a money pit after all.

Yeah for home use I am thinking single mode diode projector is the way to go. Are you finding you need PBS cubes and anamorphic prisms and such to get great results or are you able to just use G2 lens and dichroic lens?

I think this is going to be next spring/summers project for me.

[SaltyRobot]

Very nice. I likey

Thanks for the info