Winni@ goldenstarlighting.com

[Jenus]

@ acarusi: I think the aperture windows is pretty big already at 7.2x6.2cm.
And I don't really need 90 degrees scan angle, I will get around 80 degrees by just moving tha baseplate 1.5 cm closer and I will be more than happy with that.

[Picasso]

Great product review and glad to see you are working out you order trouble with goldenstar. I'd ask for a new baseplate. Those guys have all the parts to mock it up and send you a corrected baseplate and new wide mount for sure. Again thanks for the product review and pics.

[Jenus]

I have now inspected the case some more and try to figure out what to do and it looks like the easiest thing to do is just to cut the aperture wider.
The reson is that I can only move the baseplate 10mm forward until the 3D mounts hit the front, and it will be a hard task because the mounting holes right now is on the very edge of the baseplate.
A 10cm aperture will give me more than 90 degrees so I just need to cut out 14mm on each side horizontally and 19mm on each side vertically to get a square aperture.

I'm also talking to Winni about the scanner mount.

Here's a quick 3D render with a 10 by 10cm aperture and a dotted square beam @ 90 degrees, with the scanners at the position they are in now at 47mm from the front. I visualized this just to see it will work.

[acarusi]

@ Jenus...I figured that might be a bit easier

[Jenus]

I have been talking to Winni now and we have sorted everything out.
I tourns out that Golden Star changed the scanner mount to a higher one instead of raising the orginial DT40 Wide mount.
They will send me the original mount with a raiser and make a new front panel with a 10*10cm aperture.
I think they have learned from their mistake and will not change mounts again.
I also inspected the scanner drivers to see so they haven't messed with the scanner tuning and it's only the image size knobs that has been altered, so I should just be able to dial that up and then have my real DT40 Wides

[Stuka]

I might be interested in buying one of their cases -
Does anyone know if spec sheets for the individual cases are available that show interior mounting provisions, panel cutouts, etc.?

Thanks!

[tsteele93]

I have been looking at the REKE500 and was talking about it on LPF. I was considering stepping up to the next level at ~$650-$750 (shipped) and several folks suggested that I look into golden star. I looked at the website and am a little confused with the HOT RGB vs the TOP RGB.

Considering my budget, what would be the best combination of features? And what are the minimum galvos I should choose? DT30 or 40k?

I already have Pango QS and FB3 from Len, so I just need a decent Ilda RGB unit to get started.

I do not want to build one myself for my first time out. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!

[Picasso]

You should contact goldenstar / winni direct to get current list. Site is not the best for updates and specs.

[buffo]

I have been looking at the REKE500 and was talking about it on LPF. I was considering stepping up to the next level at ~$650-$750 (shipped) and several folks suggested that I look into golden star. I looked at the website and am a little confused with the HOT RGB vs the TOP RGB.

The differences boil down to the blanking and the red wavelength. The cheaper units use 650 nm red diodes (fat beams and less apparent brightness due to the long wavelength) and only have TTL blanking, while the more expensive units use 637 nm red diodes (very tight beams and greater apparent brightness due to the shorter wavelength) and support analog modulation.

Basically the cheap ones are aimed at beam show work, while the more expensive ones are better suited for graphics shows.

Considering my budget, what would be the best combination of features?

There are many answers to this question, depending on what you want to do with the projector.

I just noticed you are located in Greenville, SC. You are less than 2 hours away from Newton, NC, which is where we hold the South Eastern Laser Enthusiast's Meeting (SELEM). (Take I-85 towards Charlotte, and then head north on 321 until you get to 10, which will take you into Newton.) That event only happens once per year, and luckily for you it begins exactly 2 weeks from today.

I strongly suggest you make the trip to SELEM before you buy anything. You'll be able to see many different laser projectors in operation (including the REKE500), and that will let you judge for yourself how important analog modulation is, or which wavelength of red you prefer. (You'll also meet some great people and have a lot of fun - I promise!)

Have a look in the meet-and-greet sub-forum for details about SELEM.

And what are the minimum galvos I should choose? DT30 or 40k?

Again, it depends on what you want to do. DT30's are nice starter galvos, and they will allow you to run most graphics shows without a problem, but if you really like abstracts or if you are planning to run Lazymame or other game-emulators on your projector, then the DT40's would be a better fit.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!

There will be lots of advice available from both PM members and industry experts at SELEM... Just sayin'!

Adam

[tsteele93]

Adam,

Thanks for the tips. Unfortunately I will be in Atlanta the same weekend as SELEM and won't be able to make it this year. I know that would be ideal.

I've been emailing back and forth with Winni and there is at least one thing I don't understand.

She is recommending the H-RGB1000 with DT30. That isn't specifically listed as an option in the spreadsheet she sent me, but it does say this...


H-RGB1000 DT30*R>120mw/637nm*G>150mw/532nm*B>800mw/445nm, Animation*laser, DMX512,*AUTO, Sound,
ILDA*control, 256*patterns, ANG, 10k modulation.

I don't understand 10k modulation. I (probably incorrectly) assumed that DT30 scanners were 30k and that would be the modulation. I'm clearly missing a piece of the puzzle here.

With shipping that is going to go over my budget, but you know how that goes...

The H-RGB1200 is particularly attractive with DT30 as it is a good bit brighter. But also a nice bump higher in an already over-budget price.

Any tips in understanding what is important would be appreciated.

My typical setting is going to probably be graphics as I don't think that I'm really getting powerful enough for beam shows on this budget. Does that sound like good reasoning?

I have a setup where I can safely project this on a two story indoor wall from the top of a built-in bookshelf with no way of anyone possibly getting between the wall and projector. I also could imagine setting up safely with a solid mount at other parties on rare occasion in a strictly private setting. 99% use would be home parties with tightly controlled setup described above at a distance of about 24 feet across the room. I suppose there might be a way to do a mount up high on to the side of the house for an outdoor party as well.

Thank you all for any help!