Blown Lasever Power Supply, LSR-PS-I

[mados123]

Hey guys.

Noob mistake about to be described - only comfort is to know that even the brains in the forums have fessed up to stupid mistakes....well, maybe not this stupid. OK, here it goes.

I wanted to run my RGB system off a 110AC to 5V DC power supply. Having found a 5.5, 2.1mm dc plug with cables attached, I decided to use that to connect from the AC/DC power supply to my red laser diode's driver board/power supply. Only thing is that I thought the striped cable on the dc plug assembly (going from the AC/DC power supply) was the negative (Com) connection. Sure enough, it was the positive and I threw -5V into the laser's power supply. As a result, flames shot up and one of the pieces inside got fried.

Not sure if that is the only piece fried (although it looked like it was), including the diode. Looking to see 1) if there is a simple way to test if the diode is fried 2) whether or not I should have a tech replace the piece in the power source 3) send the whole unit back to lasever for complete testing 4) or if the diode isn't fried (after somehow testing) just order a replacement of the LSR-PS-I. Of course, like everyone, I would prefer the most expedient solution.

Any suggestions and advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!

[mados123]

OK, whoever reads this post should get piece of mind from doing business with Lasever as well as possibly get an education as to how to deal with this scenario if it ever happens to them (as in feeding -5V to the power source, solution to follow).

After writing to David at Lasever and initiating this post, David wrote back to me in 45 minutes. His email is as follows:

"Hi Adam,

C1 is the same with C4. Our engineer will repeat your mistake and test whether the driver will work after repair. I will send you message.

Best Regards,
David"

Absolutely amazing. They are going to recreate my stupidity, replace the C1 part, and see if everything works again - mind you, potentially damaging their parts at their cost. That is above and beyond what was expected of them. I hope this gives some confidence to those who are doubtful about Lasever's service. I also hope their lasers are just as good! Now if anyone knows what that part is called, labeled "476A T223N"?

Mille Grazie to David.

[uk-laser]

Sorry to hear your tale of woe.....
It *was* a tantalum capacitor.
476 is the value.
47 times 10^6 pf = 47uF
I would guess at a 6.3V rating for a 5V rail.
There is a fair chance of damage to the AD8042 op-amp as well.
Most op-amps expire when their supply is reversed.

Regards,
Robin

[mados123]

Thanks for the reply, Robin. David stated that both C1 and C7 were blown during his test although mine was just the C1. He does suggest replacing both of them to be safe. He also states that the numbers are 47uF 10V for the chip, similar to what you mentioned. The AD looks like it's OK although I don't know if that is any way to judge. I guess I will order some of those too if they need to be replaced.

Do you know what manufacturer made those capacitors? If not, could you give me a link to one that you would suggest? I usually buy through Mouser and Digikey. Thanks a lot!!!

[allthatwhichis]

What laser is that supplying? I have a 150mW 532nm that I killed somehow, but I think the power supply is still good.

[mados123]

This is supplying a 660ML 250mW, red diode. The supply for the green is actually a different design as I have that one also to compare with. As David suggested, with the laser completely disconnected, and 5V going in, do the leds light up?

[allthatwhichis]

This is supplying a 660ML 250mW, red diode. The supply for the green is actually a different design as I have that one also to compare with. As David suggested, with the laser completely disconnected, and 5V going in, do the leds light up?

On mine they do, no laser, 5V, 2 green LEDs.

[uk-laser]

Thanks for the reply, Robin. David stated that both C1 and C7 were blown during his test although mine was just the C1. He does suggest replacing both of them to be safe. He also states that the numbers are 47uF 10V for the chip, similar to what you mentioned. The AD looks like it's OK although I don't know if that is any way to judge. I guess I will order some of those too if they need to be replaced.

Do you know what manufacturer made those capacitors? If not, could you give me a link to one that you would suggest? I usually buy through Mouser and Digikey. Thanks a lot!!!

A more cost conscious company would use 6.3V
Good to see they have added a decent safety margin.
Hard to tell the manufacturer from the pics but I would guess at AVX.
Looks like a 'B' case size tant. (3.5mm long)
Mouser part no. 581-TPSB476M010R0500
$0.72 each.


Regards,
Robin

[drlava]

Wow, that's great that they blew one of their own boards to help you.. their engineer must be bored

If that cap is all that went, this is your lucky day!

[mados123]

Thanks to Robin and Lasever, I was able to replace the piece with the one suggested from Mouser. Only C1 needed to be replaced and then I was good to go! Thanks again, Robin - you helped save me from that uncomfortable feeling of either letting go of the unit for a couple of weeks or having to spend another $250.

Cheers!