Heres the basic explanation. I hope you can hear me explain it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbmX...e_gdata_player
Ill look at the rest of it tonight or tomorrow
Thanks!
Heres the basic explanation. I hope you can hear me explain it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbmX...e_gdata_player
Ill look at the rest of it tonight or tomorrow
Thanks!
Just watched the video, one thing I see missing is the connection from ILDA pin 25 to the scanner power supply. This should connect to either "COMM" "COMMON" or "GND". Try that and lets see what happens.
I want with you fix and it doesn't seem to change anything. I am uploading a new video which shows the images the scanners produce- they may be recognizable but still not sure whats causing this!
I will edit inna bout 12 hrs with the youtube link...
BTW for anyone else its a home build, just trying to get the basics strait first.
Thanks
bsancken
Last edited by bsancken; 01-22-2013 at 19:48. Reason: Clarifying..
Hello bsancken,
It tooked me 5 month to get the ildaboard and all other things working perfectly.
I've had similar problems. Please ask Rob he can help you easily out with that.
He does have a very nice drawing picture of all the connections etc.
Most of the time it's a grounding problem.
In the beginning the ildaboard of mine was working fine,
only the keystop wasn't working and the start button also not.
I have tried 100 ways to find out what the problem was.
I have had 2 times a electroshock from the fuse and
have had multiple short circuits.
But after 5 months i came out it was the wrong connected led at the ilda-board
In the beginning when everything was working perfect i had no led.
And while i was trying to connect wires at 100 different ways i have had similar problems as you have.
Be sure everythings is Grounded very well.. and don't put the GND from scanner signal anywhere. (pull the header out of the connector'it's not needed for sure)
Try the ildaboard without any level pot board or something and test it once without power cable connected to the ilda board.
If you have connect everything OK then it should be scan a image if you turn the laser on ofcourse or point a laserpointer at the mirror.
hint : If you don't use a emergency keystop or dummy, the ildaboard WILL NOT start !!!
even if you don't have a keylock connected or jumper between the connectors then the ildaboard will not start.
if you don't have the flashback 3QS connected to the ilda board ; then also the ildaboard doesn't start !!!
What i have in my system is :
230V Positive +
230V Negative -
Earth GND
FUSE
SWITCH
KEYLOCK
EMERGENCY STOP
- connect scanner psu at the mains power input (230V) (please don't forget to use a fuse and a switch between)
- *hint : split the positive + Live feed after the switch in 2 ; 1 for scanner psu + 1 for ilda relais contact Life feed IN!)
- connect L(ife feed in) (230V) to Ilda board's relais contact IN.
- connect ilda boards relais contact OUT to laser PSU Life feed in (L) 230V !!!
- connect Negative (N) from mains to scanner psu (N) and daisychain it with the laser psu (N)
*connect N from scanner psu to N laser psu and from scanner psu to the power main N*
- connect Earth GND to case GND & scanner psu (GND) & laser psu (GND)
- stanwax also adviced me to connect the GND from laser driver at the EARTH GND (but it's not really needed, but you can always try)
- connect scanner driver +24V to V1 (white wire to the connector most right when you look to the psu's connectors)
- connect scanner driver -24 to V2 (red wire --> connector on the left)
- connect scanner GND to COM (black wire)
- connect scanner psu +24 to ildaboard Power in (+)
- connect ilda board GND to COM (scanner psu)
* if you use a colourboard you also need to connect the scanner psu -24 to colourboard power in (-)
- connect X & Y SIGNALS from ILDA board to SCANNER DRIVER. (please read the documentations here : http://www.greenlaser.co.uk/)
- connect the laser to laser driver (that's not the problem i think)
- connect the blanking signal(with QS you can only use the R , G & B connections) not the Dkb ; doesn't work !
Then turn the power on.. wait 5 seconds (flashing red/green led).. then after that there should be an orange led and green led ON.
(you must use a dummy for the emergency stop connector and a jumper/bridge at the keylock connector at the ildaboard otherwise it will not work)
or buy a emergency stop with start button from Rob (really nice) or wait for the Wireless Emergency stop from rob very soon
start Quickshow.
click an image then Turn on laser projector in quickshow. and see what's happening
I hope i have helped you a little..
Good luck man !!
Last edited by svandescheur; 01-23-2013 at 11:15.
HOME-GROWN RGB PROJECTOR ALMOST FINISHED...
-Laser-wave 2.5W 445 , 2W 532 & 1.8W 637
-Stanwax® ilda- , colourcorrection- , ds3- , power distributionboard & key-stop with start button
-DT40-pro scanset @30K (Quickshow Limited)
powered by : P a n g o l i n
TIP :
jumper connections for emergency stop DUMMY !!
connect (solder) pin : 2,3,6 & 7 all together
and pin : 1 & 8 together
Last edited by svandescheur; 01-23-2013 at 14:12.
HOME-GROWN RGB PROJECTOR ALMOST FINISHED...
-Laser-wave 2.5W 445 , 2W 532 & 1.8W 637
-Stanwax® ilda- , colourcorrection- , ds3- , power distributionboard & key-stop with start button
-DT40-pro scanset @30K (Quickshow Limited)
powered by : P a n g o l i n
oh forgot to tell.. i have had also similir problems with the broken DS3 board.
i think it was broken by faulty connections(short circuit) or something by my own fault of course
i placed a new one and the problem was solved.
HOME-GROWN RGB PROJECTOR ALMOST FINISHED...
-Laser-wave 2.5W 445 , 2W 532 & 1.8W 637
-Stanwax® ilda- , colourcorrection- , ds3- , power distributionboard & key-stop with start button
-DT40-pro scanset @30K (Quickshow Limited)
powered by : P a n g o l i n
in the time i was busy trying to get the ildaboard properly work
I have ordered 2 ildaboard, 2colourboards & 2 ds3boards
But the colourboard & ilda board was all the time working perfect![]()
HOME-GROWN RGB PROJECTOR ALMOST FINISHED...
-Laser-wave 2.5W 445 , 2W 532 & 1.8W 637
-Stanwax® ilda- , colourcorrection- , ds3- , power distributionboard & key-stop with start button
-DT40-pro scanset @30K (Quickshow Limited)
powered by : P a n g o l i n
Thanks I will try these suggestions. In the mean time I have a video from last night. http://youtu.be/QOz3ocEqUHQ
It probably doesn't matter, but I'd rather connect ILDA pin 25 to the "COM" on the power supply. A lot of them are internally connected so it doesn't matter for many supplies. Also, that is one heck of a scan angle and I see that the output from the FB3 is only about half. Try setting the image size to zero and display the pattern, this should just turn the laser on with no scanning, just a beam to the wall. Then, slowly ramp up the image size and see what happens. I wonder if it's just scanning the pattern way too big at 30K. The DT-40W's are very nice scanners, but will not project complex images at 30K at an insane angle.
I am uploading another short video, but heres whats happening.
When i have the image set to 0% 0% they scan but do not let the laser beam out- at just 3% 3% they start clattering loudly and spread lines all over the wall(you can see inna hour when the vid uploads)…
I have pin 25 from the controller connected to the grnd…
Thanks
bsancken