New mini RGB build

[-bart-]

Desolder the connector, solder the wires directly on the pcb. Cut or file the excessive pcb.

[RGbee]

Last night i 'roughly' wired up to test everything was working.
Apologies for the iPhone picture quality. It's friday, so tonight i'll have a lot more time to take some decent pics with a 'proper' camera, then it's into the garage for some serious metalworking









Cheers
Adrian

[RGbee]

Question for all you electrical gurus out there,
Don't quite know how, but i fried both the 5v Meanwell PSU and the green on Satuday
As you can see below, for the quick and dirty test, i wired in 2 separate 3 pin plugs and connected each one to a psu (one for the scanners and the meanwell for the lasers) just to get the thing going



With the optics deck separated from the plate with the power supplies, everything worked ok.
However, the second the plates were placed together the supply and green failed.

What have i done wrong.

ps.
Once the IEC connector is mounted, i'll have an earth bolt on the bottom plate and both psu's earths will be attached to it

[-bart-]

Sorry to hear this.
You should have isolated the green head from the baseplate. (with a silicone pad and isolated bolts) AND connect earth to baseplate / PSUs.


3 things could have happened:

1) most likely
Leaving the PE of the PSU floating caused the input filter to lift the baseplate to ~115VAC, connecting it to the diode/driver easily killed everything attached.

2) Since you are driving it with a badpip driver, which is high-side :
The cathode of the pump-diode is connected to its case.
By shorting the case to PE (protective earth) which is hopefully connected to gnd (via one of the supplies), nothing serious should have happened.

3) The anode of the pump-diode is connected to its case.
By shorting the case to PE, the diode driver was shorted to gnd. Driver should have survived. Diode should have survived. PSU should have survived a short circuit.





If you used the original (low side ?) driver, you would have run into a similar disaster.

[RGbee]

Thanks for the advice Bart.
I assumed as the Badpip quad is a highside driver, i wouldn't need to isolate a case positive diode
I have another RS-25 PSU winging it's way over as we speak. I won't receive the replacement green for at least a week though, but once it arrives i'll isolate it

[-bart-]

I assumed as the Badpip quad is a highside driver, i wouldn't need to isolate a case positive diode

The babpip driver allows you to drive several diodes that have a common ground. So you don't have to isolate them from eachother.
Isolating the diodes from PE/gnd is always good practice, groundloops and such. (but in the case of case negative diodes you might get away with it)

[RGbee]

Apologies for sounding obtuse
When you say isolate the green head from the baseplate. AND connect earth to baseplate / PSUs.)
Do you mean the earth of the green head to the baseplate earth bolt (along with both PSU's)

[badger1666]

As far as i am aware , keep the dc ground and the ac earth seperate
Or nasty things can happen , i heard before that some houses/venues
You can get things leak to earth and kill laser projectors.
When you put it back together check with a multimeter
That the two dont connect anywhere

[norty303]

As far as i am aware , keep the dc ground and the ac earth seperate

I find that in practise that is very hard to do, when the AC earth is connected to the case (and hence baseplate and every other bit of metal in the thing!) and most of those SMPS have the ground connected to the PSU case.

[badger1666]

Just. Isolate the green from baseplate
It already grounded to dc , the fact that you have the green
Grounded to the baseplate is most likley what caused it
To go pop as soon as dc ground met ac ground